“S” TWIST continued.

the manufacture of seamless hose. This is in contrast to “Z” twist, which is used for fully-fashioned hose.

SCROOP FINISH.

This is a characteristic associated with silk. The word, “scroop”, is the term for that process which imparts the “swish and rustle” to silk. This charming property is not shared by any other fibre, and it does not appear to be inherent in the silk fibre itself, but seems to be the outcome of the working of the silk fibre in an acidic solution. The aim of the finisher of stockings is to make them more pleasing to the touch without destroying the softness of the fabric. Although mercerised cotton can be made to acquire an effect similar to silk (from a handling point of view) there is, actually, a great disparity between the two mediums. Experiments are now being made to impart silk-like scroop to rayon and nylon stockings.

SEAM.

All seams should be made with a minimum of 16 stitches to the inch, at the back of the stocking and in the foot, and a good quality 2 or 3 ply seaming yarn should be used.

A “fine-line” seam is one sewn on a new type of seaming machine which stitches extra strength into the hose, giving 22 stitches to the inch.

“Toned Seam” stockings. A two-tone effect is achieved here by the use of a contrasting seam darker in colour than the hose. This darker seam breaks the plain surface and has a slenderising effect on the leg, also the stocking itself appears more sheer by the use of this method of accentuation, so that an optical illusion is created, a four-thread silk hose appearing as fine as a two-thread.

SEAMING. Page 109.

SEAMLESS. Page 75.

SECONDS. Page 132.

SEMI-SERVICE. Pages 135 and 136.
SEMI-SHEER. Page 134.
SHADOW-WELT. (See After-Welt.)
SHEER. Pages 134 and 136.
SHEERNESS (Denier v. Gauge). Page 96.
SILK.: Silk is, without doubt, one of the luxuries from the Far East, and has a very special place in the affections of women—and men, too, for that matter. Although special fibres have been discovered which do offer a serious challenge to pure silk, this will in all probability retain in public favour its high place for human adornment and comfort, whatever substitutes are available. Silk is one of those things which in this world give us pleasure.
For stockings it is exactly right, the fibre—with or without special twist—lending itself to loop-forming during manufacture, giving true elasticity to provide that gentle stretch essential for the securing of a perfect fit, despite all movements of the leg and foot. Silk yarn has porosity in allowing a current of air to be constantly passed through the fabric. This admittance of air is necessary, as the fabric lies next to the skin. An important point about silk is that it is warm. It also has a high wet and dry strength, and does not lose any elasticity when wet. Silk also has sufficient ability to resist breakage when stretched during manufacture, even when knitted in one, one-and-a-half, and two-thread stockings. Silk yarn in fabric exhibits a good surface appearance, this quality persisting through the life of the stocking. The physical property embodied in silk when highly twisted is such that it will resist abrasion to a great degree. Silk is not too tough to knit, and has the desired flexibility for the needles and sinkers in the manufacture of hosiery. Also, see Silk Cocoon, page 9.
SILK DE-GUMMING.: Raw silk, as spun by the silkworm, consists of two single filaments of fibroin, surrounded by a layer of sericin, or “gum”. This gum must be removed prior to the dyeing and finishing, and the process known as de-gumming consists in treating the silk with an alkaline solution at or near the boil, but de-gumming should not be allowed to continue beyond the point of the complete removal of the gum, as the exposing of the fibroin to boiling alkali results in loss of silk fibre strength. On the other hand, this discharging or de-gumming must essentially be complete, or the presence of residual gum-spots will give rise to uneven dye effects.
SILK FLOSS. Page 10.
SILK (Mussel or fish silk).: This is found in certain parts of the Mediterranean and is one of the most beautiful, as well as one of the strongest materials known. The mussel shells are about seven inches long by three inches broad, and each contains a hank or byssus of fibre filament. When the shells are harvested from the sea, the fibres are removed from these, and are washed, combed, and spun like cotton. The resultant yarn is extremely lustrous, and the natural shades vary from golden brown to olive green,therefore, deftness in colour grading is necessary, as