vulnerable both from the point of view of manufacture and wear, being two details that infallibly establish quality, and because of this, manufacturers strive for exactitude in the meticulous joining of the edges, which means joining by hand stitch by stitch so that an interlocking complete, smooth and even, results, and a snug fit of heel and toe is assured. In Fashioned goods these stitches appear on the FIG. 51—Seaming.outside of the hose. Special skill is needed here, not only that the join may be strong (which is very necessary) but also that no discomfort be felt when the hose is actually worn.
In stockings where “side-linking” is required, the sides of the heel tabs of hose require to be joined to the sole (see operation “Combined Legger and French Footer”) but if the Auto-Heeler is used, see Fig. 17, this side-linking is not necessary.
Seaming. Every manufacturer likes to pride himself upon a fine, closely-fitting seam running from the top of the welt to the tip of the toe. A bad seam can spoil the best of stockings, and extra care must, therefore, be taken to achieve neatness and refinement. To this end, a high-grade seaming yarn is used, and this, employed on a fine-line seaming machine, puts extra strength into each seam, giving up to twenty-two stitches to every inch of seaming. This operation completed, and the hose having been converted from flat to tubular, there is now apparent “the shape of things to come”.
Seamless. Seamless Hosiery, being made tubular in shape on the machine, does not. therefore, require a joining seam, but this is added in accordance with prevailing fashion, except when the hose is made to the so-called “No-Seam”, “Bare-Leg” or “Bare-Look” style, when the seam is obviously omitted.
The linking of a Seamless Hose (toe only) is carried out in exactly the same manner as described above for Fashioned Hose except that the stitches are on the inside of the hose.
“YES—I’M LOOKING FOR TROUBLE!”
Eagle-eyed inspectors “get to the root of any trouble”. (Fig. 52.) Here we see one of them using an air-pressure examining form, over which the stocking is drawn, and the operator’s foot being placed on the pedal, through air pressure the heel of the stocking rises and is automatically stretched. A simultaneous movement distends the welt, so that the whole of the stocking is now exposed to a test which—by distension—throws up flaws and hidden weaknesses hitherto undetected, causing—in the case of thread weakness—a break at the affected parts. This inspection of fully-fashioned and seamless stockings for imperfections is carried out to provide a check on all manufacturing processes and materials, special attention being given to:-
1. Linking or looping at toe and heel.
2. The entire heel construction as regards reinforcement and gusset narrowings.
3. Straight lines and fineness of seam, or any break in seam.
