PULLED THREADS continued.

will start. The pulled thread is evidenced by its tight, horizontal line in the fabric (see photograph, Fig. 71) and it is usually caused by a rough hand surface when the stocking is put on, or many casualties of this type arise from splintered furniture surfaces. When a complaint of this type arises, it should be pointed out that stockings are made of very frail material (requiring careful handling), and that a pulled thread is no fault of manufacture, and is, therefore, no justification for replacement.

QUARTER-SPLICING. Fig. 43, Numbers 2 and 8.

RAYON. Page 21.

RAYON TERMINOLOGY.

Term		Definition
Rayon Yarn .. ..	..	Continuous filament rayon yarn.
Rayon Fabrics ..	..	Fabrics made from rayon yarn.
Rayon Waste .. ..	..	Waste from rayon yarn.
Rayon Staple .. ..	..	Rayon staple fibre.
Spun Rayon Yarn	..	Yarn spun from rayon staple.
Spun Rayon Fabrics	..	Fabrics made from spun rayon.
Spun Rayon Waste	..	Waste from rayon staple and from spun rayon yarn

REINFORCEMENT. Page 87.

REVERSE-KNIT (or inside-out) STOCKINGS.

Owing to the demand for a stocking with a dull appearance, some women insist upon wearing their hose inside out, overlooking the fact that they are actually sacrificing a neat appearance in the leg seam, also the heel and foot. This dull appearance is due to the curved parts of the loops of both needles and sinkers not reflecting the light at the same angle as do the straight parts of the knitted loops, and here it might be stated that the order of manufacture is that the curved parts of the loops of a stocking lie next to the skin, while the side parts of the loops which connect the needles and sinkers, form that surface which is exposed to the view when the stocking is worn. (Fig. 72) Manufacturers can, therefore—by reversing the order of manufacture—produce the coveted dull appearance, and in this case the argument against reversing a hose does not hold, the seam in this case being as normal, while the sole, toe and heel are knitted in the usual way. Both Rayon and Nylon yarns used in stockings are dulled by the producers prior to knitting, but even then, there is a section of the public which reverses its stockings in wear.

REVERSE-KNIT (or inside-out) STOCKINGS continued. Photograph showing side by side difference of stocking fabric. Surface exposed to view when worn. (Showing straight parts of loops.) FIG. 72. Surface lying next to the skin. (Showing curved parts of loops.)
RINGLESS STOCKINGS (Three Carrier).: Unfortunately, owing to the natural irregularities caused by the silkworm, it is not possible to place a cone of silk on the knitting machine, and expect regular knitting from the commencement of yarn to the end of the cone. The cone may reel off for half the length of a stocking, then it may noticeably start to run coarser or thicker. The result of this would become apparent after the dyeing of the stocking—shadow bands or dark rings would appear in the fabric. The sheerer the stocking, the more these dark rings would show up, so device known as a “three-carrier construction” is used. By means of this attachment, three yarn carriers draw Silk alternately from three cones: one row of stitches draws from Cone No. 1, the second row of stitches from Cone No. 2, and the third row of stitches from Cone No. 3. By feeding the silk into the knitting machine this way, any possible variations in the size or diameter of the silk are diffused over the surface, thus covering up, any imperfections which may exist in the one cone. If any one strand runs coarse for a length, owing to the law of averages it will not all appear in the same place in the stocking; thus from the three cones used, a clear, ringless texture is obtained.
Genuine ringless stockings are only produced by means of this three-carrier system.
RING TOE. Fig. No. 43, No. 12.
ROUND HEEL (by Carriers). Page 66.
ROUND HEEL (by Points). Page 72.
RUN-STOP.: This consists of a picot stitch (being a line of stitches which are locked to prevent the progress of runs) which is placed, usually, between the welt and the after-welt, although it can also be used where the after-welt joins the leg. It is possible during the manufacture of the welt to place this line of stitches at intervals of ¾". Picot stitches not only act as run-stops in the suspender area: they can, and frequently do, act as an ornamentation of the stocking-top.
“S” TWIST. (See illustration Fig. 73.): This twist can be applied to any fibre used in the construction of a stocking. Taking nylon as an example, “S” twist is used on the yarn for

Photograph showing side by side difference of stocking fabric.
Surface exposed to view when worn. (Showing straight parts of loops.)	FIG. 72.	Surface lying next to the skin. (Showing curved parts of loops.)