The name of CALZIFICIO Noemi, in the historical memory of Castelgoffredo of ten thousand inhabitants, is linked to a failure: that of a company brought to its knees by technology. Yet it was following the crisis of families and Nodari Eoli, in the fifties, who was born the dense network of small farms and laboratories, which still is the backbone of the Italian district of the sock.
The antidote to the poison of the crisis came from industrial fields. "Workers laid off by Noemi — says the mayor of Castelgoffredo, Anna Maria Cremonesi — not found on Flagstones because in families for each child worker, there was another that was indoors. The fund rural parents and brothers peasants to give workers the money to risk." If the difficulties of Eoli and Nodari were started by their refusal to replace the old frames with modern circular looms, new small businesses do not commit the same mistakes. It chose the more advanced machines. "The family of Pacchioni" — continues the mayor — "has built what is today the empire of the East while Grassi, a former millers of Catrine, have collected the legacy of Noemi and are now the holders of Golden Lady."
The Sixties are those of development, then consolidated in the following decade, the period of boom: sprang dozens of small businesses while many phases of the pack and sewing were entrusted to families: "In the cellars and sub — continues Cremonesi — were set up small laboratories where husband and wife during the day at the factory or in the fields, worked in the evening".
He did so even Zoetti Marino, Class'41, of peasant origin, which now holds a trademark throughout his, La Fontanella: a bill that around two million euros a year. "I learned the job in CALZIFICIO Boschetti. And then, after 16 years, I worked from Ceresa of Acquafredda. When, in '76, I chose two friends to become self, only two machines. But were the same as the Golden Lady. Initially put in the basement, then rented a shed. Finally, in 85 we will buy one." Left the little time after the initial shareholders, Marino continued to believe in her project, supported by his wife and three children. A similar story is that of Joseph Bandioli, 59 years old, that today, as the New CALZIFICIO Virgiliana, employs more than seventy people: 'We still Piubega — says the child — in short farm, in 1972, has allowed my father to build his business. Thanks to dairy cows to his cousin and 150 hectares of land his family assured that the initial capital '
Today and The New Virgiliana Fontanella are as many companies in the Italian district of sock, a portion of territory north-west of Mantua that extends to a radius of 20 km and Castelgoffredo has its center. An area that represents about 70% of the total produced in Italy and 30% of that of Europe, involving about 300 companies, some large (Filodoro, Levante, Golden Lady, Sanpellegrino), others (80%) medium and small. A total of over 7 thousand people. From the artificial silk (the CALZIFICIO Noemi began to produce it in 1926) in French DuPont's nylon, introduced in the thirties, from lycra lace seventies, up from velatissimo — all 'ultra comfort of the nineties, every stage of the history of sock is frames were scanned by machines and by the district of Mantua. "Thanks to the creativity and the enterprise of our parents — says Alessandra, 38 years old, daughter of Zoetti Marino — the Italian sock is now known throughout the world."
Two billion and a half of pantyhose products Castelgoffredo in one year about 70% is exported, 50% versus France, Germany, United Kingdom, Poland, Spain and Greece. The data are Calza Service Center, one of the monitoring and promotion, next to European Exhibition of hosiery, which is stocking the product in this corner of California. Since the early 90s the center has certified the quality of domestic companies. "The checks and periodic checks on products are essential guarantee for customers, Italian and international. We work for decades with the big names of pret-a-porter" — said Bandioli — "and in 1980 we created "Transparencies", a label with which our socks produce high quality, boutique, which packed with fiber noble as silk, wool, Cashmere and cotton mixed with Lycra". His sons were able to organize even a fashion show in Milan, dedicated to "Transparency". To promote the sector was also Mantova Export Consortium, which groups the brands which are more statistics. "The most important markets are France, Germany and Russia, especially Moscow. More difficult than the Far East, for the lack in infrastructure." The drive towards exports has led an expansion plan in the field of marketing and technology but the hard core is the creative: "Our strengths" — continues Bandioli — "have the experience and imagination of our designers: 15 people this year celebrate the 25th anniversary of the appointment. The handover to them by my generation will not be easy: there is no diploma taking."
And no school explained to the residents of the Castelgoffredo how to deal with current crisis: "The last two years have been very difficult" — says Alessandra Zoetti. "We had to resize the company, reducing staff of three workers". One can not fail to allocate at least some of the responsibility to the invasion of Chinese products as intended, but also as producers. Still another, the Chinese scapegoats for all the Italian textile industry. Their advantage in the markets is set to increase from January of this year fell the Multifibre, the agreement since 1974 that regulate international trade in textiles.
But Castelgoffredo competition to play even upstream. Why, for the Chinese district of Mantua sock rather than a colony among many, is an Eldorado: "We have moved en masse, in thirty live in tiny apartments, and maybe work in the cellars. They came suddenly, you are locked in their rooms workshop and began to sew." More or less the same thing they did the peasants of Castelgoffredo thirty or forty years ago. "But a tremendously competitive prices, not cost, nor for facilities, nor for labor and do not pay contributions", continues Alessandra Zoetti. In the realm of sock the ground for work at every stage of production is already ready. "The Chinese found their niche — the mayor says — often taking care of the steps of the pack that Italians no longer want to play."
Already, because not all children of the small entrepreneurs are interested in sheath continue the occupation. Let alone those who, more modestly, has for years sent forward only a small laboratory. So that the proportion of a worker in ten employed in the sector — "calculated on 70,000 inhabitants of the district only a few years ago — is in sharp decline", explains Cremonesi. "We need a lot of determination to take blow to the crisis" — Alessandra Zoetti concludes — "But usually customers that their infatuation prices, after a while return to us." The quality awards. "We hope... "