Back in the days of Elizabeth I, in 1586, William Lee, a poor parish priest in Calverton, Nottinghamshire, invented the first knitting machine. Although he died in poverty, his invention lived on and the hand-frame knitting of stockings became a cottage industry in the Nottingham area. In 1864, William Cotton of Loughborough devised a method of machine-knitting fabric whereby it could be shaped or fashioned automatically, and all machines, which embody this principle, are known as 'Cotton's Patent'.
Early in this century most British women were limited to factory-produced, coarse-gauge wool or cotton stockings, available in black or white — neither being glamorous! However, if grandmama had the money, she could have a pair of pure silk, fine-gauge stockings made by a 'stockinger' on a machine he kept in an upstairs room of his cottage.
After the First World War, American women could buy full-fashioned pure silk 39-gauge stockings at affordable prices.
In England sixteen-year-old Albert Ernest Allen joined his uncle, a small hosiery manufacturer, in Nottingham. By the age of forty-one he had become a director of Robert Rowley & Co. Ltd. at Leicester, one of the largest hosiery companies in the country. He specialized in selling, having picked up all his technical knowledge through years of handling the merchandise.
He was interested in developing a silk hosiery industry in this country and, in 1919, he resigned from Rowley's and sailed for the United States to see how they made silk stockings. On his return, with only £500 savings but with the help of friends, he built a factory at Langley Mill, just north-west of Nottingham. In the village were old cottages, each with its 'stockinger's window', which had been specially shaped to throw light on to the old hand-frame and there was still a reservoir of skilled labour able to work with the finer gauges of yarn. From this he recruited most of his workers, and machinery was brought from America. The company specialized in making stockings wholly or mainly of pure silk. Cotton, and at one time wool, was used for reinforcement and the 'silk' stockings of the 1920's often had cotton tops which extended well below the knee.
At first, silk was dyed and finished prior to being knitted, and the making of such fine-gauge stockings was new to everybody, including the knitters. However, in the mid 1920's the company started using raw gum silk which was easier to handle and could be dyed and finished afterwards.
In 1924, the company registered the name 'Aristoc'. It came about after A E Allen was introduced to a man who had no connection with the hosiery trade but who, on discovering that Allen was a stocking manufacturer, said: 'I've often thought that if I was a stocking manufacturer I'd call my products "Aristoc"'. With that the man said goodbye and Allen never saw nor heard of him again. An application to register 'Aristoc' was made that afternoon, although it was two years before the name was used.
A E Allen spent a lot of time writing the word Aristoc in different ways. Many of the big stores sold only 'own-name' brands — some were actually made at Langley Mill, and it was difficult to get them to take Aristoc.
The name Aristoc was registered in 1924, by A E Allen & Co., a hosiery company, based in the Nottinghamshire village of Langley Mill. The Company’s position as pioneers in the industry, and the need to exploit this, called for an ambitious plan of expansion which would rely upon the brand. The first advertisement for Aristoc stockings appearing in 1926 with the company’s books showing increasing expenditure on advertising from then onwards.
For several years the factory worked three shifts covering twenty hours each day and many developments took place which are now taken for granted. 1933 saw the first edition of Cocoon, Aristoc’s house magazine which carried news to customers all over the world. The thirties also saw a research department established to develop new products, working in harness with the production and quality control departments to improve service. In 1934 the company name changed from A E Allen to Aristoc Ltd and the company became a public one.
During the decade immediately prior to the war there was a steady market for stockings, and keen competition from lines being manufactured in Germany and Czechoslovakia, together with newly established brands in the UK. Throughout this difficult period Aristoc remained unique for two reasons: it was the largest company in the country to specialise in fine gauge fully fashioned silk stockings also, more importantly it was acknowledged to be the leading brand for quality.
Just before the war a major extension to the factory had been made, floor space had been doubled, but by 1939 only a few machines had been installed. The Company was required to make its contribution to the war effort providing space for the Ministry of Aircraft Production. The production of silk stockings was banned by the government and all stocks frozen. Stock shortages that followed resulted in a system of fair shares for all customers large and small, which although as distasteful as rationing, created much goodwill between the Company and its customers.
Nylon was introduced into stockings in the 1940’s which incorporated strength and stretch benefits. There was, however, a shortage of nylon yarn with world wide demand for nylon stockings increasing, a fact that no chancellor could ignore. The hosiery trade was quickly made to understand that allocation of yarn would be based on its ‘export performance’, and Aristoc headed the list of Britain’s nylon stocking exporters. 1947 also saw the sales department moving to a showroom in Bruton St, London.
The Company’s success in export markets enabled it to acquire new American machinery as it continued to embrace its policy of modernisation and expansion to produce the best nylon fully fashioned stockings at keenly competitive prices.
1954 saw the introduction of Aristoc’s on site dye house which not only saved on costs, as there was no longer any transportation required, but improved quality as there was now total control over the production of the stockings.
Behind the scenes the Italian machinery manufacturers were developing a circular seam free knitting machine that was going to revolutionise the stockings business. Aristoc was fortunate enough to have the floor space and was able to work with both types of machines. The first seam free machines were delivered into Langley Mill in 1959 and started the production of two styles one of which is still available today, the 30 denier Grosvenor and Mystique.
Demand for both styles was unprecedented with representatives taking orders in one week for one month's production, often collecting production from the factory to take directly into stores.
Hardly had the demand for seam free stockings been met when there was a new innovation in the hosiery market - tights. It was in 1967 that Aristoc first began producing tights using new techniques of joining separate bodies and legs. Over production, price cutting and the wearing of trousers with knee highs, however, was causing concern for all hosiery manufacturers. Foreign imports were a threat to the British manufacturers. The British Branded Hosiery Group was formed to combat this threat by promoting British brands.
In an attempt to add value back to the market, a new approach was taken. It was decided to present hosiery as a fashion item, sold as an accessory rather than a leg covering. During the 1970’s Aristoc launched ranges of textures and shades, chosen in conjunction with leading fashion houses. The new ranges were looked upon with suspicion by retailers but, having strong fashion appeal, prejudice against the new image began to fade. Aristoc reported record sales figures in 1977 proving that fashion had given hosiery the impetus for which it had been searching.
In 1984 a radical decision was taken to dramatically prune the range to present only proven fast selling styles, however, the flexibility to have seasonal and fashion shades remained. New style packaging was introduced to give a clean uncluttered look to the hosiery fixture. The 1980’s saw power dressing but with some significant interest in legwear. Aristoc developed the market for patterned tights, bows and colours. During this period new up to date knitting machines were introduced, together with computerised dyeing and machine packing, the first in the country. During 1988 Aristoc ran its ‘We’ll be your second skin’ advertising campaign in trade and consumer press, reinforcing the message of perfect fitting, perfect quality hosiery.
Changes in the market place had also taken place with the stretch and cling of lycra bringing a new element to hosiery. Perfect fit was ensured and added value sales secured for retailers. Aristoc was the first hosiery manufacturer to incorporate lycra into its products.
Into the 1990’s, and the manufacturing plant was transferred to West Mill, Belper-Derbyshire. In 1993 an investment of over £8 million was made, to create a world class manufacturing site, exemplified by the single biggest investment in the dye house.
The early 1990’s saw the launch of the first TV advertising campaign for Vitality, Sheer Sensation and Ultra 5. Product innovation became very much expected of Aristoc and with the launch of Bodytoners in 1993, fashionable tights promising a perfect shape matched expectations. Once again a national TV and press advertising campaign supported this launch.
1994 saw Aristoc’s biggest ever investment in national press advertising to continue the support of Aristoc Ultra and Bodytoners.
In 1995, a major marketing project was launched to strengthen the brand image. Aristoc became a brand for young women, making hosiery easy enough to shop in packaging which communicated the brand and product values. It was also a key time to improve customer service. The task for 1995 was to retain the positive associations and images from the recent advertising and widen the attraction of the products through the re-launch, and use of the strong new pack graphics.
The late 1990’s was a great period for Aristoc, developing strong performance products season after season, becoming the recognised brand leaders of fashion and performance hosiery.
1997 saw the launch of Slimline, new generation support tights, combining new yarns and compression knitting for a waist to toe slimming effect. English National Ballet were so impressed with the tights they have insisted on wearing them ever since.
Following the successful launch of Slimline, in 1998 Aristoc launched a new concept in hosiery, Sensuous. With feminine styling and compression knitting tights designed to be worn without underwear were launched proving that “tights can be sexy ”. 48 sheet and female colour press advertising continued, but new for this year was nationwide advertising in motorway service stations and shopping centres.
1998 also saw Melanie Sykes launched as the “Legs of Aristoc” in a PR partnership, that created a huge interest in Aristoc with the press hungry for the fabulous steamy shots of Melanie,feminine, feisty, fun and fashionable . Melanie epitomises the brand personality with a regular slot on TV, she had come a long way from the her first big break when she fronted the Boddingtons commercials.
1999proved to be the most exciting year in the history of Aristoc with a major product launch of Cool Cotton, in the spring. Summer hosiery sales were growing thanks to the launch of Soleil and Cool Cotton which combined the benefits of cotton and barely there leg looks. Autumn 1999 saw the major launches of two very innovative hosiery ranges, both unique and filling gaps in the hosiery market.
In depth research enabled Aristoc to target a previously untapped sector of the market by creating a range of “Fashion Ammunition” under the sub-brand of aka: Aristoc. for the late teens and early twenties. These tights were packed in radically different silver foil packaging targeted specifically to this fashion orientated age group.
Perfect to lead Aristoc into the 21st Century, new Bodytoners were also launched. In this growing category of shape and control, it was important that feminine styling was introduced. With lingerie inspired designs and contemporary packaging, this range proved to be a huge success. National advertising supported the range in female colour press, 48 sheet and underground billboards.
The move in 2000 into seamfree lingerie the most exciting product launch ever for Aristoc. Although Aristoc has traditionally been a hosiery company, this was in-fact a natural progression. The design and technology of the products were unique, and thoroughly researched offering comfortable shaping and control. Bodytoners lingerie offers support without wires, revolutionary products in revolutionary packaging.
Spring 2000 and English National Ballet are used to present the Aristoc Wedding Collection which encompasses hosiery for all of the wedding party. Keepsake gift packaging was created, together with a competition to win a luxury weekend in London to see Swan Lake. The joint ENB & Aristoc PR Campaign created a huge interest in the press, and a live window was created in Dickins & Jones to celebrate the range.
Autumn 2000, following unprecedented press coverage prior to launch, the first tights & beauty cream in one were launched. Slimline, clinically proven to slim and firm legs, were revolutionary with micro encapsulated sea minerals and graduated compression. Supported by a full media campaign, our first cinema campaign entitled, “Subtitles” is screened, winning a top ten cinema award. Consumers are invited to enter a competition to win a break at a luxury spa, when buying new Slimline System.
Moving into 2001 and another exciting year. Soleil, a one stop shop for summer hosiery, with innovative products and exciting new finishes, a full range of shades to complement every skin tone completes the offer. Launched with a gift promotion sales increased by 120% from the previous year and press activity was high.
September 2001 and fishnets are huge, the successful movie launch of the year Moulin Rouge has women clambering to buy fashion nets to accessorise. This has a huge impact on the industry when once again hosiery has become a fashion ‘must have’ and an everyday wear purchase. Aristoc is recognised as the hosiery supplier to the films as sales of the limited edition range sell out of store.
2001 is a busy year with the relaunch of Ultra, the best range which had just got better. Establishing a core range of sheer and opaque products all supported with an on pack loyalty promotion. New anatomical designs ensured the range offered the superb fit and comfort demanded by our customers.
In conjunction with 20th Century Fox a huge consumer campaign is launched to win a weekend in Paris, and as Moulin Rouge fever hits the UK sales of fishnets soar through the roof.
Autumn 2001, and we look at hosiery in a new way, the Freeflex range is launched guaranteed to be the most comfortable tights or your money back. The brand advertising campaign continues with the second cinema campaign, “A Bum Note” and press activity includes the “Trouser Press for Sale” Ad. This campaign incorporates the legwear collection, confirming Aristoc as a total legwear brand.
The end of 2001 sees a huge amount of press activity on a new phenomenon called Wonderbum, and hosiery for the first time in many years makes the front pages of the press. Girls either want fashion or products that improve their shape.
2002 and an exciting year ahead, fishnets are key. Due to the success of Moulin Rouge the huge film for 2002 editors are using Aristoc for product placement. Wonderbum hits the shelves and Aristoc launches Leg Candy. Fashion products for young and old to target those who love to wear trousers, but still want to highlight ankles. Fashion styles are still in demand with huge sales growth being achieved in fashion nets.
As the summer approaches the call arrives as Aristoc is invited to Pinewood Studios and challenged with producing a range of products licensed to thrill. How to get the look of a Bond Girl sees Aristoc push the boundaries offering hosiery gift packs in limited edition film endorsed packaging, which completely sell out whilst the film is still showing at the cinemas.
Bodytoners gets a fresh new look building on the strength of sales in the performance market sector.
Another trend to hit the UK is for products knitted on hosiery machines which simply shape the body & thighs, tights without legs.
Huge in the US. Slimline launched in 2002 gets a new health and beauty approach with the micro encapsulates now working to improve the legs after 5 days a massive breakthrough in product innovation. An on pack promotion to win 51 health & beauty treats rewards consumers who try the range.
Stockings and hold ups see an increase in sales with the retro look appearing through clothing trends, John Swannell is invited to create a ‘boudoir’ feel to the Sensuous range extended for Autumn.
Aristoc sales remained buoyant in a declining market as once again women want to accessorise their legs, fashion this autumn also supported the Pink Ribbon Foundation as Aristoc helped raised funds for a charity close to womens’ hearts.
Moving into spring 2003, fashion products are still influencing sales, fishnets move into the classic staple everyday category as women have a renewed interest accessorising legs. Little socks take influences from the fifties as nostalgic films hit the big screen.
Sales are strong in sheer hosiery, but the market is increasingly tough, sales end at 15% down at the half year. But 2003 proves to be a year of two halves as from September demand increases, as fantastic press coverage encourages women back into tights for the Autumn.
Back to the eighties, as Aristoc launches Legwarmers for the Autumn teamed up coloured and patterned opaques. These were along side a new phenomenon of Footless tights but the market was not quite ready for this. Lace footless tights and flared bottom trousers to added a new dimension to legwear but Aristoc had once again been too early for the market as this trend did not hit the high street for another two years.
As the leading fashion and performance brand, PR activity becomes more important and by working with key retailer House of Fraser we are able to offer catwalk fashion, usually only seen in fashion magazines, on the high street.
The collection offers shades and patterns influenced by leading fashion designers in their catwalk shows.
We see unprecedented growth in fashion opaques from October, and sales end at over 130% up on the previous year for this category.
The year ends optimistically as you cannot open a newspaper or magazine without realising that legs are back in fashion and Aristoc is featured regularly by all leading fashion press building brand awareness.
Moving into 2004, renewed interest in legwear and optimism amongst buying teams promises an exciting year ahead and Aristoc celebrates being 80 years old.
Spring 2004 and Bodytoners receives a complete new look. The control market becomes more sophisticated resulting in pressure on the leading shape & control range Bodytoners, therefore a radical new approach is adopted for the range. The brand needed to design products to meet the needs of the modern woman’s wardrobe and communicate these more effectively encouraging trial by “non traditional” wearers.
With fashion still influencing sales, Spring products were developed to create interest in a flat market. Spring 2004 was all about pastel shades and nets.
Sales of control tops now equated to one in four purchased, a buoyant sector of the market as sales soared on the previous 12 months. Contemporary new products had been developed to match the modern wardrobe with adjustable waist and 10 denier ultra sheer leg
Fishnets had transferred into everyday products and were not going to disappear once again into the fashion history books. There was a whole new generation of women who wanted to experiment with fashion products from colours to texture, Aristoc would remain at the forefront of fashion delivering the fashion styles in short runs to the more discerning consumers.
When approached by Rod Stewart, in Autumn 2004, to supply products for the cast of the West End Musical “Tonight’s the Night”, the brand one again saw an opportunity to stretch the marketing budget and interact with consumers on a more personal level. By working with Emma lead dancer from the show, a range of Aristoc promotional shots were created to use with the press and in store. Linking up with a leading department store group Aristoc offered a competition to win fantastic prices associated with the show whenever they purchased a product in store.
Join in the celebrations as we enter the ninth decade in business. High standards combined with new technology have ensured that Aristoc remains one of the leading fashion and performance brands.
Seismic changes in women’s fashion over the last 80 years have more often been underpinned by legs, made more elegant & beautiful by Aristoc.
Aristoc has stood the test of time and is still leading the way.
The autumn fashion range glimpsed back to evoke memories of the glamorous pin ups adored for the provocative poses and exaggerated pouts.
This season was about contemporary retro.
2005 saw the launch of two new Aristoc ranges. “for legs for eyes” and the “Ghost” range designed by Tanya Sarne.
Ghost is Britain’s ultra-feminine designer brand and the collaboration with Aristoc produced the limited edition “Ghost” collection. Designed by Tanya Sarne, founder and creative director of Ghost.
the collection brings her inimitable design vision to the world of legwear.
“ I believe that together with Aristoc, we have created a hosiery collection that reflects the Ghost philosophy”
So what did the butler see in Autumn 2005?
A collection of finest fashion legwear available, exquisitely made with a level of detailing never before seen at these price points. Luxurious ribbons, gorgeous patterns and ultra feminine designs to compliment the most beautiful lingerie . . . Lucky man!
Definitely for dressing up with cheeky little ribbons and bows, a fabulous boudoir collection perfect for autumn trend.
Hosiery market is starting to feel the pressure as sales have continued to decline during the past five years. With some light at the end of the tunnel the opaque market continues to grow autumn 2005 as once again hem lines rise and skirts and dresses begin to out sell trousers.
The opaque collection is loved by the fashion press supported with strongly-themed imagery.
The market continues to decline into 2006 but there is a polarisation as the basic product are rejected for fashion and performance products. As women buy fewer products they are spending more on each.
2006 was another year of development for Aristoc. The best selling Ultra range was completely refreshed to offer a complete wardrobe for legs. A flurry of PR activity preceded the re-launch which included; National and regional press coverage and personal in-store shoppers.
Fighting hard for market share the brand needed to build on its credentials of quality, performance and innovation to continue to grow. The market remained tough and marketing campaigns would be key in keeping consumers aware of this brand. September 2006 and the PR agency that had worked with Aristoc for the last 10 years finally closed it doors leaving the brand with no option but to find a new communications agency to continue building awareness.
Autumn 2006 was going to be a tough one as fashion was all about footless tights and plain black opaques rather that designs and nets.
As dance fever swept the nation Aristoc saw an opportunity to ride this wave and link up with the most influential of these, BBC’s phenomenally successful Strictly Come Dancing star Camilla Dallerup.
Featuring on packaging and in-store she created a real stir dancing with the gorgeous car mechanic from Coronation Street (Ray Phelan).
2007, a new year and a re-launch for the brand. Building upon the heritage of over 80 years, the strong credentials for quality and performance, Aristoc would once again become a premium brand within he Courtaulds portfolio.
The Sensuous stockings and hold ups range was given a fantastic new look with delicious imagery to reflect the strong brand position in this sector. Great timing for the Valentines celebrations, however press coverage was disappointing A new radical approach was required from the marketing team raise the brand to new levels resulting in the appointment of a new communications agency to make Aristoc more appropriate to the sophisticated woman at the top of their game.
Aristoc Brand Ambassadors Campaign was launched during April 2007 fronted by influential women all of which genuinely loved the brand. Sue Clague, Annabel Croft, Sital Punja, Diane Thompson, Debbie Lovejoy & June Sarpong. Featured in numerous press articles, these women would inspire consumers to nominate their own Ultra Woman to win the accolade of Aristoc Ultra Woman of 2007.
Autumn 2007 sees the launch of the new Bodytoners range with unprecedented coverage in the press for the Hourglass Toner. Many London stores reported waiting lists as the whole seasons stock was sold out overnight. By making a shrewd investment during the early part of 2007 Gok Wan was secured to act as brand ambassador for the range. With his fantastic styling credentials & a real empathy with women he was the perfect person to endorse the range.
2008 turned out to be another big year for the brand as the a new range of Bodytoners shapewear is introduced. The brand had found a formula.
working with recognised experts and fantastic products that performed in independent testing the brand was once again the darling of the fashion press.
A new ambassador was recruited to represent the new Bodytoners shapewear range who had great credibility not on with consumers but amongst industry experts.
Mark Heyes was approached to become the 2008 ambassador resulting in some fantastic media coverage on TV’s GMTV & This Morning programmes where during independent reviews the products were voted best performing in the market place.
The campaign was further enhanced with a fabulous opportunity for three women to win a makeover & fashion shoot with Mark.
2008 was a tough year for the hosiery market with poor sales generally on the high street.
Winning products were either opaque or offered additional benefits such as shaping.
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