been shaped or fashioned to fit the leg. The number of these “flare” narrowings varies with the gauge and standard of the hose.

At the back of the calf, many more marks appear, showing where the fabric is narrowed sharply to taper down to the ankle. Narrowings are also used in the foot to complete the “tailoring” of the Stocking.

Figure 30 shows how the loops look during a narrowing process. In this drawing we see four loops moved inwards—loops 5 and 6 have double stitches which will show as “fashion marks” in the fabric, loops 3 and 4 having been removed to these needles. Loops 1 and 2 are placed on needles previously occupied by the 3 and 4. This clearly shows how fabric is narrowed—or reduced—in width.

There are several ways of “widening” the fabric of a stocking. This widening operation is usually performed when making the heel of a stocking of the “round heel” or so-called “glove fitting type”.

NARROWING OR FASHIONING

or
How a Stocking is given that tailor-fit

The term “Fully-Fashioned” is applied to hose that is fashioned to the shape of the leg. This fashioning is accomplished by gradually reducing the width of the stocking fabric from the welt (the extreme top of the stocking) down to the foot, and the adjustment to leg circumference is made by transferring a succession of end loops on each side of the stocking fabric by narrowing points. (These are inserted into the loops to be transferred, the points fitting into the needle-groove at the same time pressing down the beard of the needle so that the loops can be taken off these needles when the points are raised and moved towards the centre of the stocking) Fig. 34. The narrowing points cover two needle spacings, and at the same time, the travel of the yarn-carrier is also reduced by two needles on each side of these courses. The travel of the yarn-carrier must always correspond with the number of needles knitting, and as the stocking is narrowed, therefore, the travel of the yarn-carrier is reduced accordingly. As a result of this operation, each of two needles is made to carry two loops, these double loops being recognisable in the fabric by small marks right and left of the seam. In the next knitting course,

the needles carrying the two loops act as though carrying one only.

Fig. 32, photographs 1 to 7, show the narrowing point movements.

1. The knitting action is temporarily suspended while the operation of narrowing the fabric takes place. In the illustration, the needles are positioned ready to accept the narrowing points.

Fig. 31.
FIG. 31.
The Narrowing Attachment—this operates the narrowing points,
giving that “tailored shape to the stocking”

which can be seen above the end of the needle bed (right hand).

2. The narrowing points have descended behind the needles, and the needles move towards them in such a manner that the beards of the needles are buried in the groove of the points. The tips of the points are likewise pressed in the needle grooves below the tips of the beards, and in this position loops can be passed from needle to narrowing point (and vice-versa) without being “cast off”.

3. The downward movement of the needles and points causes a definite number of loops to be pushed up the needles and on to the points so that the loops will cling to them.

4. The needles and points now rise to such a position that the latter are free to move sideways—the loops no longer embrace the needles, but are carried on the loop-carrying points.