NEEDLE (Bearded). Page 84.
Fig. 69.
FIG. 69.
NEEDLE COUNT. Page 97.
NEEDLE (Latch). Pages 84 and 98
NEEDLE OUT.
This type of stocking is made by removing certain needles (around the cylinder if seamless machines, or out of the needle-bed if fully-fashioned) this being done for the purpose of obtaining drop-stitches. A drop-stitch is a defect in the normal way of knitting, producing a ladder, and this can be formed systematically between every third needle, or as required to conform to whatever mock-rib effect is desired. The system of “needle out” on Seamless machines is used in the production of rayon mock-rib hose, and on 45gg. Fully-Fashioned machines in the use of two-fold 130s. lisle.
NET (Lace Design)
Fig. 70. Net (Lace Design)
FIG. 70—Net (Lace Design)
NO-SEAM STOCKING. Pages 34 and 77.
NYLON. Page 29.
OPERA LENGTH.
This type of stocking is made over 40” in length, and has an extra wide top to accommodate the thigh.
ORGANZINE. Page 17.
OUTSIZE STOCKINGS (ex. O.S.).
This term is usually given to 10½" foot size, calling for a shoe size of 7½ and 8.
PAIRING. Page 122.
PANEL.
Sometimes referred to as the “Boot” or “Leg”, and is that part of the stocking which extends from the heel to the lower edge of the shadow-welt.
PLATING.
This is a knitting process in which two yarns of different quality are used, one showing on the outside face of the stocking, and the other on the inside (or back). It is possible to use this process in the reinforcement of the wearing parts of the stocking by using a splicing thread as an additional strengthener. Silk is usually plated on Cotton or Mercerised Lisle, the silk showing on the fabric face, for appearance. In order to obtain, say, Silk plated on Cotton, on a fully-fashioned machine, it is necessary to lay the inside thread exactly on top of the outer thread, because the outer side of the stocking (or that which is seen on the leg) is the inside (lying underneath) during the process of knitting the plated fabric, and receives the direct plating thread. In order to prevent any twisting or crossing of the two materials, the main carrier containing the silk underthread runs a certain distance ahead of the plating (or cotton) carrier, and the movement of the cotton carrier must follow almost simultaneously with the advance of the sinkers, so that the two threads will be in their relative positions when the sinkers push the yarns forward.
PLY (Folded or Doubled) Yarns.
In the manufacture of hosiery, a yarn much stronger than that produced by ordinary spinning methods is often required. Such a demand is fulfilled by producing ply yarns, made by twisting two or more single threads together. The usual method is to insert the twist when doubling, in a direction opposite to the twist given in the single thread. This creates a twist known as “balanced” twist. Double yarns are strong, and can be cared or combed, depending upon the purpose for which the final thread is to be used.

If doubled yarns are to be mercerised, it is the usual practice to double the single thread with a low twist. A good mercerised yarn made from long-stapled Egyptian Cotton, and with the single threads gassed before doubling, is very strong. The single threads are twisted “Z” and the doubling twist is “S”. These specially twisted mercerised yarns should not be confused with cotton yarns also used in stockings, the counts being 40s. to 200s., being doubled with a low-twist contrast so as to give a smooth and soft effect.

By using two or more ply yarns twisted together from different colour singles, ingrain Heather and Lovat shades can be obtained, giving subdued harmonious hues, or delicate mixture shades for wool sports hose.

Single yarns, one wool and the other viscose rayon, when twisted together and dyed wool way, result in a pleasing speckled effect (the rayon being left white) and this method is adopted for the production of the type of stocking which is much used by elderly people.

PROMOTIONAL PLAN.
Co-ordination of stockings with shoes, gloves, hats, and accessories, giving a general effect of harmony.
PULLED THREADS.
Many retail complaints arise through a pulled thread from which ladders