21

IDENTIFICATION OF FIBRES

At the present time, many different kinds of fibres are used in stockings, and the problem of identifying these may occasionally present itself to those who have no facilities for making detailed examination. The following are simple tests which can be applied, these requiring no laboratory equipment:-

The Burning Test. This differentiates animal, vegetable, and synthetic fibres. If a burning match be held to a small end piece of yarn (usually found inside the stocking, especially where one type of yarn joins another, such as in the area of change from welt to panel, also in the foot bottom) the following results will be observed:-

Cotton. The flame burns the yarn rapidly, as it would burn paper, and a brown-grey ash appears along the burning edge. The odour also is like that of burned paper. If a piece of the burned fabric were tested, the burned edge would be found to be concave.

Pure Silk. This burns more slowly, giving off an odour as of burned feathers, and the residue forms brittle, black beads along the edge. If it is weighted silk (weighted with metallic salts) it burns with difficulty, leaving a residue in the form of yarn.

Wool. This burns more slowly than silk, with a more pronounced animal odour; the residue forms larger beads.

Rayon. Burns more rapidly than cotton, leaving charred edges, and giving off a paper-like odour.

Acetate Rayon. Softens before burning, and finally burns with what appear to be little explosions. A shiny ash is left, which curls over the edge—the odour given off is acid.

(Quite apart from the burning test here, if a drop of acetone be applied, the spotted area, rubbed with the finger, becomes sticky. This is the only type of rayon to react to this test.)

Nylon. Melts and fuses, leaving a hard residue, and retains its colour when melted.

22

THOSE TERMS—WHAT THEY MEAN

Where a subject is dealt with at length in this book, a page number is given as reference.
ACETATE. Page 24.
ADJUSTABLES.
These are stockings having the top as a single piece of sheer fabric (not a double hemmed welt) the length of which is 7" for each size of foot, 8½" to 10½". This fabric is made in this one-length top only, and is capable of adjustment to leg lengths varying from 25½" to 32½". This is, therefore, right for every height.
AFTER-WELT (Shadow Welt).
This is usually 1¾" deep, and is that part of the welt which is below the regular welt of the stocking. Sometimes a two-way stretch panel is knitted into this portion to provide sufficient elasticity for comfort, but not to the extent of distorting the fit at calf and ankle. Some manufacturers pick out their brand or style numerals in this welt (each numeral representing a different weight) and as each thread weight is designed for a different purpose, so this welt marking would serve as a guide in the acquisition of the hosiery wardrobe. Also, should any particular type of stocking give great satisfaction to the wearer, no difficulty would be experienced in procuring the same style and construction again.

On the purely ornamental side, designs such as diamonds, butterflies, etc., are sometimes knitted into this portion of the welt.

In certain seamless hose (370/400N.) the word. “Nylon”, is picked out in the shadow-welt, so emphasising the thread from which the stocking is made.

ANKLE FIT.
“Fit at the Ankle” is one of the chief requirements in Women’s Stockings, and even the use of plastic yarn knitted on fine-gauge circular machines—the stockings shaped by pre-boarding—does not overcome the basis of the thigh, leg, ankle and foot of a seamless hose having the same number of needles as there are needles in the machine (the shaping being achieved by graduation of the stitches). The shape of a seamless stocking cannot, therefore, be induced in the same way as is that of a fully-fashioned hose, where the machine maintains a stitch regularity, the shape being worked into the fabric. The fully-fashioned hose also has the advantage in that the leg contour adjustments ensure a retaining of the shape when worn. This shape is never lost, in spite of prolonged wear and repeated laundering, whereas the seamless hose made from plastic yarn gets its shape from the pre-boarding thermal setting, and as the width of the ankle on the shape does not change, there can be little adjustment to accommodate women’s ankles of varying size.
AUTO-HEELER. Page 45.
BALANCED STITCH.
This is a balanced construction of thread with the gauge of the machine, as a result of which the stitches are perfectly formed, fitting the needles, and sinkers within the frame-gauge. Without this special attention to stitch balance, sheerness is merely slack (loose) fabric.
BEMBERG. Page 26.