“footer” and “legger”. (Sometimes the yarn used on the “footer” does not exactly match that of the “legger” in type, size and quality.) See fig. 57.

7. Streaks in the fabric—visible sinker stripes and needle lines.

8. Trueness of dye colour—note sharply defined colour contrasts or shadings.

Fig. 57. The topping-line.
FIG. 57.
In spite of the most careful working the difference between leg and foot can be seen (legger and French footer). The faint line is known as the “topping line”.

9. Elasticity of tops and badly mismatched welts.

Being satisfied on all these points, the folder then hands the stockings to the transferring section, where every stocking gets a brand-name stamped on to its fabric by means of a stamping-iron which transfers the name from paper.

This operation finished, the stockings are returned to the folder. Each pair is folded, and usually six pairs are placed in a box—being protected by paper fly-leaves. (Sometimes these two processes take place in reverse order.)

The finer sheers, chiffons and georgettes are individually sealed in attractive cellophane envelopes, afterwards being boxed.



When we have the right stocking on,
the other must be the left!

Attention must now be given to the process of pairing or “folding” or “fallowing” as it is known in the Hosiery trade, when the final inspection is made and all the “irregulars” are set aside. The stockings arriving here, both perfect and “irregular”, have been dyed and finished, and to an untrained eye look the same.

There is no right or left to the feet of hosiery, so expert folders pair the stockings together by measuring the size of foot and length of leg. The length of a stocking for size 9½ foot must not vary too much from the standard 30” for a woman’s stocking. A folder would pass stockings which were a little longer, but the finished length must not be less than 29½", the tolerance being ½", excepting where special proportional lengths are required.

Important as is the selection by size and length, this is by no means the folder’s only duty. Although every care is taken in each stage of manufacture, inspection is entirely visual, and in some instances it can only be seen after the dyeing process that certain materials do not match. The folder keeps a watchful eye for imperfections, in classifying irregularities and menders as set out in “Grades of Inspection”. (See page 126.) Under this heading there also appear photographs, for reference in conjunction with the chart page.

Special attention is also given by the folder to the following:-

1. Correct alignment of fashioning or fashion marks (below welt and above ankle).

2. Matching of the heel reinforcements (the type and quality of the yarn used for strengthening the heel influences colour evenness).

3. Straightness of seam and exact matching of sewing-thread.

4. Uniformity of loop formation.

5. Visible horizontal rings or shadows caused by variation of silk or other fibres. (Dye may bring to light certain faults.)

6. Instep matching where stockings are made on two machines—