Fig. 48 Charts showing Denier and Gauge - part 1
FIG. 48.

apparent, but at the first trying-on, the welt will bind, and the extra-induced length will be taken up in the stretch as the hose are pulled on, so making noticeable the deficiency of material.

Another important detail is the finish of a stocking. Skilled work is required for the putting in of that fine-line seam with extra high-grade seaming thread, and for the perfect matching at the heel and hem. Also to be taken into consideration are the dyes used, and innumerable little details which represent value to the wearer of the finished stocking. All these cost more, and help to determine value as it is shown in the price.

Unlike other articles of clothing, stockings do not always give wear in proportion to the price paid, and it does not necessarily follow that “the more you pay, the longer they wear”.

The manufacture of a good fully-fashioned stocking depends upon a standard, and this standard is based upon the following:

1. Width of needle bar used.

2. Number of flare narrowings.

3. Total length of stocking.

4. The number of courses from heel-linking (or looping) course to top of stocking.

Charts (pages 103-4) set out standards. Similar standards to these are conformed to by the stocking manufacturers of the U.S.A., thereby protecting the customer when stockings are purchased over the retail counter. It will be noted that these two standards of manufacture have been arranged for by “Regulating the Loops”, as the quality, appearance and finish of a stocking depend to a great extent upon the length of the loop. On test, more force is required to distend the stockings as the number of courses per inch is increased.

1. Standard A. This represents the highest classification of regular quality merchandise in its respective gauge.

2. Standard B. Representing medium quality merchandise.