Fig. 35.
FIG. 35 
(J) requires a rapid increase, therefore the fashioning area (W2) may consist of 9 widening steps, each of which gives 2 edge loops at intervals of 3 courses, so as to produce a nice round heel. It is advisable to add further widenings at less frequent intervals, so that the edge between (J) and (K) in the area (W3) is rounded. This can be improved by adding 1 widening at both (J) and (K) at intervals of 10 courses. After the point (L) is reached, straight courses are knitted to (M).

For the formation of the bottom of the heel, the stocking blank is now reduced in width by about 14 narrowing steps, each giving a reduction of 2 loops each side between (M) and (N) in the area (Nl). Area (N2) (NO) is reached, and the fashioned instep narrowing is so arranged that this area should progressively diminish in width, so as to be narrower at the sole end than at the lower heel end.

The course frequency of narrowing the instep in the area (N2) may consist of 10 narrowings at intervals of l0 courses this depending entirely upon the weight of the fabric used, consistent with its elasticity. After the completion of this tapering instep, the knitting of the main portion of the foot is carried out in the usual way, and this, with a fashioned toe, completes the stocking blank. As there is a continuous selvedge edge round the heel, a single seam is used from top to toe of stocking.


needle 6 because this needle now contains a loop “b”. The loop “b” extends across needles 6 and 7 and is actually the beginning of a “runner”, but the “runner” is split at this course owing to the fact that the splicing yarn only extends to needle 6.

Fig. IV-B. The carriers have returned to the left, and the splicing yarn selvedges on needle 6, thus completing a widening of two needles (see Fig. IV-A). The main yarn extends two needles further, but does not knit on the end one. and, therefore, leaves a loop on needle 7 only.

Figs. I to IV-C. These show a repeat of courses 1 to 4-B, illustrating the distortion of the selvedge loops due to the fact that some of the loose loops of the main yarn are drawn up through subsequent loops of the main or splicing yarns. The last Fig. (IV-C) shows the ultimate result obtained in the fabric.


Fig. 35 shows a diagrammatic drawing of a flat, fully-fashioned stocking blank, showing the manufacture of a stocking with round heel, made on a single machine, also view of one side of this heel section as shown in Fig. 36.

The stocking is formed as a flat stocking blank, commencing with a top portion known as the welt (A) followed by an afterwelt or shadow welt (B). The leg fabric is now reduced in width by flare narrowings (C), the number of these used depending upon the gauge of machine used in the manufacture. Knitting is continued straight (D) until the calf portion is reached. The calf fashionings (E) are carried down to (F) to provide between (F) and (G) an ankle portion which, by regulation of the number of narrowing fashionings, is made sufficiently narrow to fit the ankle. The narrower the ankle, the greater number of widening operations necessary to obtain the correct width of area (L).

The formation of the heel section now begins. This consists of a widening of the stocking blank up to 25 widening steps, two loops being added at each step. The first widening (W1) is carried out between (H) and (I), near the upper end of the usual high splice (G) and may consist of 6 widening steps at 5-course intervals, each adding 2 edge loops. The portion between (I) and