STOCKINGS

Fig. 14 Legger and French Footer
FIG. 14
the addition of a special mechanism required to give different narrowings required for the toe. The foot being shorter, fewer Footers than Leggers are required to make a balanced plant. Factories require one Footer to two Leggers, or one Footer to three leggers according to the type of hose produced.

Making-up Operations.

1. The welt is formed by doubling over the upper part to give the necessary strength at the top.

2. The leg is narrowed at the thigh, after which a straight portion is worked until the calf narrowings are put into shape in conformity with the shape of the leg.

3. Part of the leg fabric is pressed off the centre needles at “E”. The legger continues to make the heel–tabs, “DD”.

4. The heel tabs of this legstocking–blank are turned outwards, forming a straight line “D E D”. This straight portion is run on to a transfer-bar, loop by loop.

5. These loops, by means of the transfer–bar, are transferred to the needles of the French–footing machine and the diagram shows the difference between the method of making this foot and the English foot.

6. Parts “A” and “B” are joined by the linking operation, as is the toe also. The leg and foot bottom are seamed, thereby finishing off a complete hose.

STOCKINGS

the turntable. In spite of the additional time required to complete the heel, by this method of manufacture the automatic transfer reduces the time cycle to such an extent that the production is comparable with any other type of Heeler. At the same time, the perfect join formed between the heel and the sole makes this method very desirable.

The Single Head Legger machine is one which is quite suitable for the employment of female labour, several machines being worked by one operative.

This type of machine is becoming very prominent with manufacturers who require 54 and 66 extra fine-gauge machines to make a stocking with round heel. Machines of this type are being made with semi-automatic welt-turning apparatus. Here it should be stated that unless the “round” heel is made really well, it tends to slip under the sole during wear. This type of heel is more popular in the U.S.A. than it is in England.

The diagrams (Figs. 14, 15 and 16) show how the various portions of a hose appear after they have been knitted, with a description of the making–up operations through which they pass to make the complete stocking.

Reinforcing threads are added to the fabric in the highsplicing, sole, toe and heel portions, thereby increasing resistance to wear at these points.

LEGGER AND FRENCH FOOTER

For the production of this type of Fully–Fashioned stocking the manufacture is divided into two operations:-

1. The leg of the stocking is knitted on a machine called the “French Legger”. Each machine usually consists of 18 to 24 sections and the width of each section varies from 14" to 15".

2. The foot of the stocking is knitted on another machine called the “French Footer”. This has divisions varying in number between 20 and 36, each of which is normally 10" in width.

The hose was made this way, that is in two separate portions for many years. It was not possible to knit the heel tab required on the leg and at the same time knit the foot, as the side of the foot would be knitted on needles already occupied in knitting the heel tab. Further, the machine was greatly complicated by